Centella Asiatica in Skincare
Centella asiatica is a botanical with some human evidence for improving hydration and reducing water loss in specific topical formulas. Plant part, extract type, concentration claim, and the complete moisturizing formula all matter.
- Aliases
- Cica, Gotu Kola, Indian Pennywort, Tiger Grass
- Ingredient category
- Botanical Extract, Conditioning Agent, Skin-Soothing Ingredient
- Most relevant for
- Dryness, Skin Barrier Support
- Evidence strength
- Some Support for Improving hydration and reducing water loss with studied topical Centella formulas
- Formula matters
- Plant part, extraction, standardization, concentration, vehicle, and supporting moisturizers shape results. Evidence for specific extracts or isolated compounds does not apply to every cica product.
- Separate product needed?
- Usually No. Most routines do not need a separate Centella serum when the existing moisturizer already controls dryness and tightness.
BB takeaway
Centella is credible moisturizing and comfort support, but cica is not a universal barrier-repair claim. Choose the complete formula rather than adding another serum for the botanical name alone.
Ingredient evidence does not prove the performance of every finished product containing it.
What is Centella asiatica?
Centella asiatica is a botanical also known as cica, gotu kola, Indian pennywort, and tiger grass.
In cosmetics, Centella-derived ingredients are used mainly for skin conditioning and comfort. Ingredient lists may name Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, or other plant-part-specific materials.
Those materials are related but not automatically interchangeable. Plant part, extraction method, solvent, and standardization can change what the finished raw material contains.
Centella also contains compounds such as madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. Those compounds are not aliases for Centella asiatica, and evidence for one should not automatically be assigned to a generic Centella extract.
What does Centella asiatica do for skin?
Centella is most useful as a supporting ingredient for hydration, skin comfort, and barrier-focused formulas.
Human studies show that some Centella-containing leave-on formulas can increase hydration and reduce transepidermal water loss, which is the water that escapes through the outer skin layer.[1][2]
Some formulas have also reduced short-term experimentally induced redness, but that does not make generic cica a treatment for rosacea, eczema, acne, or chronic inflammation.
In a moisturizer, ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides, panthenol, emollients, silicones, and occlusives may contribute as much or more to the final result.
What the evidence says about Centella asiatica skincare
Centella has some support for improving hydration and reducing transepidermal water loss, but the evidence is limited and preparation-specific.
In a four-week human study, 25 healthy volunteers used complete cream and gel formulas containing 2.5% or 5% of one Centella extract.[1] The 5% formulas produced the strongest hydration and water-loss measurements and also reduced experimentally induced short-term redness.
That study is useful but small. It does not establish 5% as an ideal strength for every cica product or prove that generic Centella alone is responsible for every benefit of a finished formula.
A separate double-blind clinical trial in 30 workers with dry skin compared a Centella-containing cream with a ceramide-containing cream over four weeks.[2] Hydration measures improved with the Centella cream, while there was no significant overall difference between the Centella and ceramide groups in skin-barrier improvement.
More recent studies continue to support Centella-containing moisturizers but remain formula-specific. A 2025 study in 88 women with sensitive skin found better hydration and redness measures and less discomfort after four weeks of using a cream containing Centella asiatica leaf extract, ceramide NP, and panthenol; water loss decreased significantly at weeks one and two, but not at week four.[3] Because the study lacked a matching vehicle control, those improvements belong to the complete cream rather than Centella alone.
Medical wound-healing literature also exists, but those studies involve wounds, burns, ulcers, specialized extracts, or delivery systems that are not comparable to ordinary facial skincare.[4] They should not be used to claim that a cosmetic cica serum heals damaged skin.
For your routine, Centella is best treated as a supporting ingredient for hydration and comfort. A cica label alone is not proof of barrier repair or treatment-level results.
How Centella asiatica form and formulation affect results
Centella is not one standardized cosmetic raw material.
Leaf extract, root extract, plant water, whole-plant extract, callus culture, and isolated triterpenes can differ substantially. Evidence for one should not be transferred automatically to another.
A large percentage on the label also needs context. A product may advertise a high percentage of Centella water, a diluted extract, or a supplier blend. That is not the same as the same percentage of concentrated Centella actives.
Product format matters too. A watery ampoule can add light hydration but may not provide enough moisture retention for dry skin. A cream with humectants, emollients, and barrier lipids can provide more complete support even when Centella is not the hero ingredient.
Do not treat multiple Centella-derived names on an INCI list as proof of a stronger product. Finished-product performance, tolerability, and the full moisturizing system matter more.
Who may benefit from Centella asiatica skincare?
Centella can make sense when mild dryness, tightness, or skin comfort is the main concern and the complete product fits your routine.
It can also be a useful supporting ingredient when stronger actives temporarily make skin feel drier or more uncomfortable, provided the moisturizer actually gives enough hydration and moisture retention.
A lightweight Centella serum or ampoule may suit someone who wants another hydration layer without a rich finish. Drier skin usually gets more value from a complete moisturizer.
You do not need to seek out Centella if your current moisturizer already keeps your skin comfortable.
Centella asiatica side effects and irritation risk
Centella-derived cosmetic ingredients have a favorable safety record.
The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety concluded that nine Centella-derived ingredients are safe in current cosmetic uses and concentrations when formulated to be non-sensitizing.[5]
That does not guarantee every cica product will feel gentle. Botanical extracts can still trigger irritation or allergy in some people, and fragrance, essential oils, acids, preservatives, or other ingredients may be the actual source of stinging or redness.
Stop using a product that causes persistent burning, itching, swelling, blistering, or worsening redness.
How to use Centella asiatica in your skincare routine
Centella does not need a special routine. Use the finished product according to its format.
A watery serum or ampoule usually goes after cleansing and before moisturizer. A Centella cream can simply serve as the moisturizing step.
If the same product also contains an exfoliating acid, retinoid, fragrance, or another stronger active, base frequency on that ingredient and your skin’s tolerance rather than on the Centella.
There is rarely a reason to layer several cica products just to increase exposure.
How long does Centella asiatica take to work?
A well-formulated moisturizer or serum can make skin feel softer or more comfortable quickly, but that early result belongs to the complete formula.
Human studies of Centella-containing topical products have measured hydration and water-loss changes over about two to four weeks.[1][2]
Those timelines do not establish a universal cica promise or a fixed barrier-repair schedule.
There is no dependable cosmetic timeline for generic Centella extract to heal wounds, fade scars, or treat chronic redness.
What can you use with Centella asiatica?
Centella fits easily into most skincare routines.
It can be used alongside glycerin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, panthenol, squalane, dimethicone, and petrolatum.
It can also appear with vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, exfoliating acids, or acne treatments when the complete routine remains comfortable.
The main practical limit is total irritation. Centella cannot cancel out an overly aggressive routine, so reducing irritating steps is usually more useful than adding another soothing serum.
How to choose a Centella asiatica product
Start with the job you need the product to do rather than the cica story.
Choose a moisturizer when dryness and moisture loss are the main concerns. Choose a lightweight serum only when you genuinely want another hydration layer and it does not duplicate something you already own.
Look for brands that clearly identify the Centella material and explain what any highlighted percentage represents.
Be cautious when a large number appears on the label without saying whether it refers to pure extract, diluted extract, plant water, or a supplier blend.
For reactive skin, judge the full formula. A simple product with a good moisturizing base may be more useful than a heavily marketed “cica” formula full of potential irritants.
Centella alone does not justify Premium pricing. Pay more only when the finished product offers a meaningful advantage in texture, tolerability, packaging, usability, or credible product-level evidence.
Do you need a separate Centella asiatica serum?
Usually, no.
Centella works best as a supporting ingredient inside a moisturizer or serum you already have a reason to use.
A separate serum can make sense when it fills a real hydration or comfort gap and you prefer a lightweight layer.
If your current moisturizer already manages dryness and tightness, another cica serum is more likely to add complexity than a meaningful benefit.
The BB Perspective
Centella asiatica is a credible supporting botanical for hydration and skin comfort, with some direct human evidence for improved hydration and reduced water loss.
The evidence is still too formula-specific to make “cica” a universal barrier-repair or redness-treatment claim. Plant part, extract type, concentration claim, supporting ingredients, and finished-product testing all matter.
You do not need to seek out Centella or pay extra for it. Choose the moisturizer or serum that best addresses your dryness, then treat Centella as a supporting ingredient when the rest of the formula earns its place.
Last reviewed: September 2026
Sources
Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K. Moisturizing and Antiinflammatory Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Centella asiatica Extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2016;78(1):27-33. doi:10.4103/0250-474X.180247. PMID:27168678.
This small four-week study involved 25 healthy volunteers using complete cream and gel formulas containing 2.5% or 5% of one Centella extract. The 5% formulas produced the strongest hydration and water-loss measurements and reduced experimentally induced redness. The findings support the tested formulations but do not establish 5% as an ideal concentration or prove that every Centella extract performs the same way. The authors reported self-funding and no conflicts of interest. Return to citation.
Anggraeni S, Umborowati MA, Damayanti D, Endaryanto A, Prakoeswa CRS. Role of Centella asiatica and ceramide in skin barrier improvement: a double blind clinical trial of Indonesian batik workers. Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology. 2021;32(4):589-593. doi:10.1515/jbcpp-2020-0510. PMID:34214362.
This double-blind trial involved 30 workers with dry skin who used either a Centella-containing cream or a ceramide-containing cream for four weeks. Hydration measures improved with the Centella cream, and the study found no significant overall difference between the two groups in skin-barrier improvement. The exact Centella contribution still depends on the tested finished cream. PT Paragon Technology and Innovation formulated the blinded creams and funded the research; the authors reported no competing interests. Return to citation.
Su Z, Zheng Y, Yi J, Lai W, Ye C. The Effectiveness and Safety of a Skin Care Product With Centella asiatica Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, and Panthenol in Subjects With Sensitive Skin: A Prospective, Observational Study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2025;24(7):e70324. doi:10.1111/jocd.70324. PMID:40682399.
This prospective study followed 88 women with sensitive skin using one facial cream containing Centella asiatica leaf extract, ceramide NP, and panthenol for four weeks. Redness, discomfort, and hydration improved over four weeks; water loss declined significantly at weeks one and two, but not at week four. Because there was no matching vehicle control, the effects cannot be assigned specifically to Centella. The study was supported by Galderma, which also manufactured the tested cream; the authors declared no conflicts of interest. Return to citation.
Arribas-López E, Zand N, Ojo O, Snowden MJ, Kochhar T. A Systematic Review of the Effect of Centella asiatica on Wound Healing. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health. 2022;19(6):3266. doi:10.3390/ijerph19063266. PMID:35328954.
This systematic review identified four clinical trials involving Centella in wound-healing contexts. These medical wound studies provide biological and treatment context but are not comparable to ordinary intact-skin facial cosmetics and should not be used to claim that generic cica skincare heals damaged skin. The authors reported no external funding and no conflicts of interest. Return to citation.
Johnson W Jr, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety Assessment of Centella asiatica-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology. 2023;42(1 Suppl):5S-22S. doi:10.1177/10915818231158272. PMID:36812692.
The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety assessed nine Centella-derived cosmetic ingredients, noted that they function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, and concluded that they are safe in current cosmetic uses and concentrations when formulated to be non-sensitizing. This source supports cosmetic function and safety rather than treatment efficacy. This assessment was sponsored by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, which is financially supported by the Personal Care Products Council. Return to citation.
Products featuring Centella Asiatica
These evaluated products list Centella Asiatica among the Key Ingredients that meaningfully shape the formula. Inclusion here reflects ingredient relevance, not an endorsement or rating.
